Saturday, February 15, 2020

Daunting Tasks

Photos with descriptions.
One of the most daunting tasks many photographers neglect is to record serial numbers and take photos of their equipment for insurance purpose. Most professionals have to do this tedious chore as part of their business insurance package as gear is expensive and often financed.

The enthusiast Mamiya user usually collects their equipment, one piece at a time, sometimes over a period of years. They hope their camera stuff is insured through their home or tenant's insurance. 

If you stuff is stolen or lost it is a good idea to have ready for the insurer a list of your gear with serial numbers and photos. Please note: it is very difficult to put a value on used lenses and cameras which have been out of production for many years. You might have to pay a camera store to make valuations based on your photos alone.

Depending on the value of gear you might want to speak with your insurance agent anyway.

Think about it!








Friday, March 8, 2019

A Brief Historica










Mamiya C220 with 135mm lens

©PeteParsons








At Mama Mamiya our primary concern is the use of the C-Series twin lens reflex (TLR) camera.

It may be of some use for those readers who are considering obtaining a Mamiya TLR to know a brief history of the camera's production lineage and the various models.

The Mamiya TLRs were first produced as the Mamiyaflex with fixed lenses in 1948. In 1956 the Mamiya C series with interchangeable lenses and other accessories aimed at the professional user were introduced.

The current Mamiya user main source for equipment will most likely eBay or Kijiji and it may be helpful to have an idea of when various models were produced:

Mamiyaflex Junior (1948)
Mamiyafex Automat A  (1949)
Mamiyaflex 1  (1951)
Mamiyaflex II  (1952)
Mamiyaflex Automat B  (1954)
Mamiyaflex Automat A II  (1955)
Mamiyaflex Automat B II  (1956)
Mamiyaflex Automat A III  (1956)
Mamiya C  (1956)
Mamiyaflex PF (1957) police model
Mamiya C2  (1958)
Mamiya C3  (1962)
Mamiya C33  (1965)
Mamiya C22  (1966)
Mamiya C220  (1968)
Mamiya C330  (1969)
Mamiya C330f  (1975)
Mamiya C220f  (1982)
Mamiya C330s  (1983)

The C/C2/C3/C33/C330's were produced for the professional photographer. The C3's has a film advance lever which also cocks the shutter. Almost all accessories fitted these cameras.

The more economical C22/C220 was targeted toward the semi-pro and amateur photographer who did not need the wide range of accessories as a pro. The C220 required the shutter to be cocked manually either before or after film advance.

The lenses for the C models are matched twin lenses.The top is the viewing lens, the bottom contains the shutter and aperture blades.

There are three versions of lenses. The original were the chrome series with shutter speeds of 1 sec. to1/400 sec. The second series were also chrome with shutter speed extending to 1/500 sec. plus bulb. The last black series had improved shutters and more extended lineup.

The so-called blue dot lenses were the last to be produced and the most desirable but I can find no mention of them being produced in the complete range of lenses.

The following is a list of lenses which may be of benefit to the buyer:

55mm f4.5 (black,Seiko shutter)
65mm f3.5 (chrome,Seikosha-MX shutter)
65mm f3.5 (chrome,Seikosha-S shutter)
65mm f3.5 (black,Seiko shutter)
80mm f2.8 (chrome,Seikosha-MX shutter)
80mm f2.8 (black,Copal shutter)
80mm f3.7 (chrome,Seikosha-SLV)
80mm f3.7 (black,Copal shutter)
105mm f3.5 (chrome,Seikosha-MX)
105mm f3.5 (chrome,Seikosha-S shutter)
105mm f3.5 (black,Seiko shutter)
105mm f3.5 D (black,Seiko shutter)
105mm f3.5 DS (black,Seiko shutter)
135mm f4.5 (chrome,Seikosha-MX)
135mm f4.5 (chrome,Seikosha-S)
135mm f4.5 (black,Seiko shutter)
180mm f4.5 (chrome,Seikosha-MX )
180mm f4.5 (chrome,Seikosha-S shutter)
180mm f4.5 (black,Seiko shutter)
180mm f4.5 Super (black,Seiko shutter)
180mm f4.5 Super (black,Seiko-SLV)
250mm f6.3 (black,Seiko shutter) manual cocking only*

*while most lenses auto cock on the C3's some of the latter models may not auto cock on earlier bodies.

A number of accessories were also produced including for the C3's interchanging backs which allowed for single sheet films.  Different viewing screens were also available for the C3's but not the C2's.

Other accessories including the complete lens lineup, paramender, lens hoods, eye level viewers etc. could also be used on both bodies.

Mamiya stopped production of the C series in 1994 as the 645 and RB cameras became more popular.



















Tuesday, February 12, 2019

Getting Good Negatives










Careful use of a light meter is the essential first step for getting good negatives

©PeterParsons

Getting a correct exposure by careful use of a light meter and adjusting for bellows extension, the Mamiya TLR black and white photographer is still faced with a number of developing choices to obtain a good negative.

Darkroom printing is an art unto itself and requires skills developed over time, along with a thorough knowledge of equipment and materials.

I will assume most current black and film users will want to develop their own film.

Negatives can then be scanned for internet use and to make prints using a printer.

Outsourcing digital files to a lab is also a great way to get excellent enlargements from your black and white negatives.

The most inexpensive and quickest way to get good negatives is to develop film yourself.

Normally we arrive at a film/developer combination based on a recommendation or through experimentation.

T-Grain films such as Kodak T-Max or the Ilford Delta range are the most recent in film technology before the digital tsunami and they are still available along with their recommended chemistry.

My favorite film/developer was and still is Kodak's Tri-X and D76.  I used this combination for many years as a newspaper photographer before colour in newspapers became dominant.

For my current Mamiya work I use Ilford HP5 Plus film which is similiar to Tri-X, but less expensive.

Digital Truths Massive Developing Chart is also a good source for different film/developer combinations: https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

I still have a good stash of Kodak powder chemicals developer D76 and Fixer left from a large purchase made several years ago and will use these until they run out before turning to Ilford.

My 120 film is developed at home in the laundry tub using a 16 ounce stainless steel tank and film reel.

I do not recommended the adjustable reel plastic tanks such as the Paterson for 120 films. They do a great job for 35mm films but I have found the 120 reel size does not allow for good flow of developer during agitation, often leading to uneven negatives.

Air bubbles, overdeveloped edges and underdeveloped central areas of the negative are most common complaints using these reels which are adjustable for both 35mm as well as 120 films.

Other required items are a film changing bag so you can load film onto reel in daylight. You can however find a completely darkened room.

Loading film on a metal reel is the most daunting of tasks for the novice developing their first films.

Sacrifice a roll or two of unused film so that you can practice (by visually observation) before loading your exposed film onto reel inside the light proof changing bag.

I use D76 diluted 1:1 for film developing and this is dumped after each roll. The stainless steel developing tank holds 16 ounces. The one gallon size of 128 ounces will develop about 16 rolls of film.

The gallon size of Kodak fixer is used full strength and returned to its jug after each use.

Do not use the fixer beyond  manufacturer's recommended capacity as scratching negatives during squeegee use is increased.

A thermometer is needed to mix the developer and water to a working temperature of 68 degrees F.

Try to always use the same temperature of developer/water mixture by carefully adding small amounts of either warm or cool water along with the developer in a container (8 oz each of developer and water) until the 68 degree temperature is obtained.

Careful and consistent agitation is the key to evenly developed negatives.

Pour developer into tank and give it a couple of good raps to dislodge any air bubbles which may be attached to film. Every minute slowly invert the capped tank gently a couple of times. After 13 minutes are up dump the developer.

Fill the now empty tank with water for a 30 second quick rinse and then add fixer. Agitate fixer in the same manner as the developer. Kodak's powder fixer requires a soak of at least 10-12 minutes at 68 degrees.

Wash in running water at 68 degrees for at least 30 minutes

A wetting agent such as Photofo can be used after wash but is not necessary. Carefully wipe film with a film squeegee. Be careful not to scratch film. Hang to dry using film clips or clothespins.

Examine you negatives. If the side edges and central areas look even your agitation was successful.

Darker looking edges are a sign of overly aggressive agitation. With under agitation the edges look good but central areas are too underdeveloped looking.

Good luck! It may sound relatively straight forward, but it may take a number of rolls before the goal of consistent results are obtained.

Saturday, October 20, 2018

Filters for Black and White Film

Add caption




The top picture was taken with no filter, the middle one with a light yellow and the bottom with a R25 red filter.

Notice the difference in the sky, the water and dark areas between pictures.

Shot with a 55mm lens on my C220. Ilford HP5 film developed in D76, 1:1, 12 minutes at 68 degrees.

These are straight scans from an Epson 4490 scanner with no adjustments in Photoshop.

©PeteParsons









Although the use of filters in black and white film photography seems like a good way to get better pictures through improved tones, most film photographers do not bother to use filters.

The two main reasons are that filters requires an increase in exposure from one to four f-stops depending on the selected filter making a tripod a necessity .

The second is that the tonal change is universal. A yellow filter may darken a blue sky but lighten foliage. A green filter may lighten foliage to the extent it may appear odd to the eye.

As we are primarily concerned with the use of the Mamiya twin-lens cameras and with films like Tri-X and Ilford HP-5 (our favorite film) it is to these combinations or to the interested film user to which this post is addressed.

Filter sizes for lenses manufactured by Mamiya TLR use a 46mm or 49mm filter:

   46mm filter for the  80, 105,& 135
   49mm filter for the 55, 65, 180 & 250

The use of a 46-49mm step-up ring is recommended to avoid having to buy both sizes.

Filter manufacturers use their own combination of letters and numbers to identify their own products but their color and the effect on panchromatic film are similar.

The filter factor is a number which these manufacturers use to tell photographers how much increase in exposure is required to get a good negative. A good idea is avoid filter factors altogether and mark on the filter's case the increase needed in f-stops. Most photographers would use a combination of increased shutter speed and aperture to get good results.

The following is a list using Hoya's website, for example, indicating the increase in aperture in f-stops for their filters:

Colour                  Exposure Increase   

Yellow                       1 f-stop              
Yellow-Green            2 f-stops            
Red                            3 f-stop            
Orange                       2 f-stops             
Green                         2 f-stops

As the yellow, red, orange and green filters are the most often used a brief description of each is in order:        

The yellow filter is often the first filter acquired. It is used to darken a blue sky on a sunny day, increasing the visual difference between clouds and darkened sky. Other colours such as reds, greens and yellow-orange are reproduced in slightly lighter tones. It will often give flesh tones a more natural look. Many landscape photographers leave permanently attached as it also improves penetration of fog and haze.

The red filter increases the effect of a yellow filter by making skies almost black. Photographs of buildings made of different materials are often improved with the red filters as tones may appear more interesting. A red filter is dark and will normally require an increase of three f-stops of exposure. A diligent photographer might consider the use of a tripod when using a red filter.
Infrared films such as Ilford's SFX 200 require the use of a red filter.

The orange filter is considered an all around filter like the yellow. It is stronger than yellow but not as dramatic as red. It too can be kept on the camera at all times spanning the effects of between the yellow-red range and lightening foliage tones. Haze and fog penetration are also improved as well as skin tones in portraits.

The green filter primary purpose is to lighten green tones as panchromatic film often will record foliage darker than they appear to the eye. Although limited in application the green filter can also be used in portraits by darkening lips and making skin tones more natural to the eye.

In all cases the use of filters should be considered experimental. Panchromatic film has nuances from manufacturer to manufacturer. Individual developers can give wildly different results. Scanning a negative is different from an enlarger print. Each photographer must decide if the use of filters is even worth the effort or cost.

It is my opinion however that the TLR user, always using the same film/developer technique, consistent scanning and printing will see better results by using filters.

Ilford Photo has a good introduction to filter use:
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/colour-filters/

Freestyle Photographic has a very detailed piece on filters for the more technically inclined:
https://www.freestylephoto.biz/black-and-white-filters-tutorial

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Winter Bird Feeder



Winter Bird Feeder

Mamiya C220
135mm lens
1/250 at f8
Ilford HP5
Developed in small tank.
Kodak D-76,  1:1
12 minutes at 68F
Agitation once per minute
Epson 4490 scanner






I was hoping for a bird or squirrel to invade this bird feeder in my backyard after a spring snowfall a couple of weeks ago....no such luck, even after waiting ten minutes, which for me is a considerable length of time.

Snow is always difficult as it overexposes and make highlights appear muddy under flat lighting using black and white negative film. Attempting to compensate by reducing development time is hit-and-miss.

As exposure produces density in a negative and development contrast, changing either adversely effects the other.

Bracketing is the only option available other than shooting multiple rolls and developing each at different lengths of time. Expensive and time consuming.

Back lighting in full sun is perhaps the best approach to photographing snow scenes. Avoiding flat lighting completely, but not always an option.

I now develop film in a laundry tub and no longer have access to a darkroom where a contact sheet was always made to evaluate everything.

Eyeballing the negatives, sticking what seems the best into the scanner and hoping for the best is now my method.....Progress?




Saturday, December 19, 2015

First Lake Foot Bridge

                                                                       © 2015 PN Parsons



First Lake Foot Bridge near my home in Nova Scotia

A non-Mamiya picture. Shot with a Zeiss Nettar folder.

1/200 second @ f8.0
Ilford HP5
D76 1:1
20 degrees C 12 minutes
Kodak powder fixer 12 minutes

                               

Sunday, December 13, 2015

Silhouetted Spruce Trees

                                                                                  © PN Parsons


Spruce trees are silhouetted against a cloudy sky near Rainbow Beach in Nova Scotia in December 2015

Mamiya C220
55mm lens
Yellow filter
1/250 second @ f11.0
Ilford HP5
D76 1:1
13 mins. @ 20 degrees C.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Driftwood Tree Trunk

                                                                            ©PN Parsons





Driftwood tree trunk photographed near Conrads Beach, Nova Scotia, October 2014

Mamiya C220
55mm lens

Ilford HP5
D76  1:1
12mins, 20C

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

My Camera Bag



< Domke F-2 Original Bag, black


I have just read a Facebook quote from actress Keira Knightley in which she says film photographers are much better at seeing their subjects than digital photographers. She went on to say that one of the reasons she agreed to be photographed topless for Interview magazine is the images not be Photoshopped.

http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/keira-knightley-by-patrick-demarchelier

Keira Knightly is #1 on my list for Mama Mamiya of the Year

I meant this blog post to be about what's in my camera bag, my camera and lenses of choice,  not blow on too much about why. This does not see to be the case and I apologize for the digress.

As a former professional photographer, I am often asked how much equipment a person should have to do good work....to consistently produce good pictures.

Mostly I reply "a serious photographer needs only one camera and two lenses: a medium wide angle and a short telephoto. Since most consumer cameras come with a wide angle to telephoto zoom  anyway, this is all you really need."

Extras such as a flash, a longer or wider or faster lens can expand your capability but do not in themselves make one a better photographer.

If you can not create decent pictures with a minimalist camera,  film or digital, all the equipment in the world is not going to help. ( I am not talking about specialist areas like wildlife or macro work, but in more general work like landscape or people photography) The problem is not the camera, it lies with the user's inability to see and feel the subject.

There are a few more things to ponder when selecting camera.... Like, why you want to take pictures anyway? What exactly are you going to do with the pictures? What's your motivation?.....

...I assume anyone involved in black and white film photography has more than a passing interest in the craft...

I will add it is more difficult for the film photographer to consistently produce good pictures as it requires a unique mindset: one must see, think and visualize the end result before the shutter is released. Luckily a skill which can be developed, improved and nurtured over time.

A digital capture is somewhat the opposite of that. All the creativity is after the fact, in front of a computer using Photoshop. Click...click...click and you're a master. Easy, but in some circles has led to a backlash against digital in favour of  traditional film techniques.

Visualization is even more difficult when using black and white film. It becomes important to see tonal qualities as well as subject, lighting and composition. The choice of camera, lens, film and final print become very important and reflect the subject through the photographer's vision.

Also important is getting enough different views of the subject from different angles to do justice to the subject itself. With a 35mm the photographer can easily jump around shooting to eventually arrive at the best angle. Not so with the TLR's waist level finder in which the image is backwards anyway and no auto exposure or autofocus to help you out.

Using a TLR  slows the photographer down and makes her concentrate on the subject, slowly and often over a longer period of time.

So there you have it, my disgress.

But what's is most important to many photographers?

Without question it seems to be.........their stuff.

Now on to my stuff....

The range of equipment for the TLR photographer is most extensive in the Mamiya C series, where the availability of changeable lenses is unique in the TLR world.

The following is a list of 35mm equivalents for the C series lenses:

55mm  >  36 mm 
65mm  >  42 mm
80mm  >  52 mm
105mm >  68mm
135mm  > 88mm
180mm  > 117mm
250mm > 163mm

This impressive range of what now would be called vintage lenses is still limited on the wide end, the 55mm has a 35mm equivalent of 36mm. The 250mm is 163mm on the telephoto end. The 250's bellows extension make it all but unusable except for tripod and studio work and the 180 only slightly better. Since all C cameras came with the 80mm normal lens it is a good chance you will have one of these anyway and a great lens if you are content with the normal focal length equivalency work.

That leaves the handheld or monopod using landscape/streetscape/ portrait photographer with a working 35mm equivalent range of 36mm to 88mm. Not much, but all you really need.

So if you choose the Mamiya C series film system as your camera along with the 55 and 135mm as everyday lenses a good question would be what would be a good camera bag to carry your stuff around and reflect the cool film user hipster dude you have now become.

During my years as a professional photographer the only camera bag I ever really liked was the Domke F-2 original, black canvas version. I briefly used the sand colour F-2 until a friend asked me why I had a pink bag?

The F-2's simple old school design molds to your side and does not bounce off the hip when walking fast or running. Over time it becomes a very comfortable bag, stylish yet discrete.

Although original designed for 35mm photojournalists, the F-2  is also ideal fit for the roaming Mamiya TLR photographer. Its depth is just about right on for the camera with flip finder closed, plenty of room for lenses, meter, film etc. It comfortably hangs off the shoulder and fits nicely behind the seat of a car.

I have two C220's but only keep one in my bag along with a 55mm,  80mm and 135mm lenses. Add to that a Minolta incident flash light meter, which I still have from my studio days, yellow and  red filters and a 46-49 step-up ring.

My current favorite film is Ilford HP5+ and usually carry 5-10 rolls

So there you have it. A great and capable film camera, a limited but superb line of lenses in a hip and discreet shoulder bag. All you need are inspiration and motivation, the two things even more important than equipment needed to consistently produce good pictures.






Monday, August 18, 2014

Thanks Jena!

Jena                                                            ©PN Parsons
Recent photo of my daughter Jena taken with Mamiya C220 and 135mm lens.

I have many 1000's of pictures of Jena since the moment she was born over 34 years ago. To this day, along with my younger daughter Heather,  she is one of my favorite and most sympathetic of subjects.. Thanks Jena!

Ilford HP5 developed in Kodak D-76 1:1, 12 minutes.

Exposure 1/125 second  at f8.0

Monday, August 4, 2014

BLUES BROTHERS

                                               Jonah and Cohen with 3D Glasses
 
 
 
 
 
My two grandsons 
Jonah, 5, and Cohen, 3,
wear 3D glasses from
 the movie Planes II

Mamiya C220, 135mm lens
Exposure 1/125 seconds, f8.0
Ilford HP5, D76 1:1, 12 minutes
Epson 4490 scanner




The Lowly Monopod

                     C220 Mamiya TLR attached to a Gitzo monopod*
















I dislike having to carry a tripod.

The bigger they are the more I dislike them.

I dislike the bulk and cumbersome size of the
beasts.

Lighter, carbon fiber models don't seem to help. I will never like using one.



What I do like however is a good monopod. The lowly one-legged accessory which as it turns out is perfect for general photography on a TLR.

Not only is it unobtrusive it can be carried over the shoulder comfortably for many hours. Try that with a tripod.

The following is my list of reasons for using a monopod:

1. Cheaper than a tripod.
2. Ideally suited for use with a TLR
3. Comfortable on shoulder
4. Doubles as a walking stick or extension tool in the right hands.
5. Formidable weapon if needed.
6. Takes up hardly any space.
7. Makes you look serious.
8. Holds TLR steady down to 1/30 second with shorter lenses.
9. A good one like a Gitzo will last forever.

*my daughter Jena holds Gitzo monopod with C220 attached. 135mm lens, 1/250 second at f8.0
 Ilford HP5 film developed in D76 1:1 for 12 minutes. Negative scanned on Epson 4490